A mechanical watch in exploded view: the sapphire crystal, the opaline dial and the brass calibre suspended in line above the open gold case, with its leather strap laid alongside.

New — Heritage Line

Two disciplines.
One measure.

Mechanical watches from the Vallée de Joux and perfume composed in Grasse, made by one house to one standard.

The watch,
opened.

Four parts, in the order a watchmaker takes them off. Keep scrolling and the calibre lifts out of its case.

  1. 01Sapphire crystalBox-domed, anti-reflective on both faces.
  2. 02Opaline dialSilvered and sunburst-brushed, applied gold indices.
  3. 03Calibre M-31137 parts, 27 jewels, regulated in six positions.
  4. 04Case & strapPolished gold, 38 mm, lugs drawn from the same billet.

Two workshops,
one standard.

Four hundred kilometres apart, doing the same thing: taking something apart until it can be put back together better.

The movement

Calibre M-31 leaves the Vallée de Joux as 137 parts. The going train steps down from the mainspring barrel through the centre, third and fourth wheels to an escape wheel turning six times a minute, where a Swiss lever escapement releases it in beats of 28,800 an hour.

The balance is free-sprung and poised in six positions, its hairspring terminated by hand in a Breguet overcoil so the coil breathes concentrically rather than pulling the staff off centre. Bridges are bevelled on an oiled boxwood lap and black-polished against tin — the one operation nobody has yet made a machine do faster than a person.

Frequency
28,800 A/h
Reserve
68 hours
Jewels
27
Cross-section of the calibre M-31 going train: mainspring barrel driving the centre, third and fourth wheels into the escape wheel, pallet fork and balance. BarrelCentreThirdFourthEscapePalletBalanceCalibre M-3128,800 A/h · 137 parts · 68 h
Calibre M-31Barrel · Centre · Third · Fourth · Escape · Pallet · Balance28,800 A/h · 137 parts · 68 h

The extraction

Jasmine is picked in Grasse before eight in the morning, while the flower still holds its indole. The petals are laid on chassis of purified fat for three days, the fat is washed with ethanol, and the ethanol drawn off under vacuum. What is left is an absolute measured in grams per hundred kilograms of flower.

Citrus is cold-pressed from the peel within a day of picking. Woods and resins go to the steam still. Nothing here is reconstituted and nothing is pulled with hexane, which is why the harvest year is stamped on the base of every bottle: two seasons of the same field do not smell alike, and we would rather say so.

Concentration
22% extrait
Maceration
6 months
Volume
100 ml
Half-section through a 100 millilitre extrait flacon, showing the ground-glass stopper, the collar, the fill level, the dip tube and the punt. 100 mlGround-glass stopperCollar, 15 mmExtrait, 22%Dip tubePunt, harvest year
Flacon, 100 mlGround-glass stopper · Collar, 15 mm · Extrait, 22% · Dip tube · Punt, harvest year